| The ancient monuments of the Western
Isles: A Visitors' Guide to the Principal Historic Sites and Monuments
by Noel Fojut, Denys Pringle and Bruce Walker. Edited by Denys Pringle.
(Historic Scotland, HMSO, Edinburgh, 1994). PB; 72PP. £3.95.
ISBN 0-11-495201-9.
A companion volume to the guide to The ancient monuments of Shetland,
reviewed in Pictish Arts Soc J, 4 (Autumn 1993), 51-52, this book
should help to fill a gap in the market for a popular guide to the
historic sites of the Outer Hebrides. These are certainly less well
known than those in other parts of the country, and The Western
Isles provides a short but comprehensive overview of the stages
of the area's development, with a selection of the most interesting
monuments to visit described in detail.
There are sections on all periods from the Mesolithic
to the early 20th century, but the distribution of monuments through
time is distinctly unbalanced, reflecting the to very different
rates of survival from different eras (and perhaps the specialist
interests of the authors). Thus only three monuments of the Neolithic
and Bronze Age are described, but six Norse/Medieval churches or
complexes are covered in considerable detail, and vernacular architecture
is introduced in a comparatively lengthy essay.
The surviving built heritage is rather singular
on the islands between North Rona and Barra. In general buildings
are more modest in scale even than in culturally closely related
Argyll, and all periods are considerably less well studied archaeologically
than they are elsewhere - notably in Orkney and Shetland.
There are however a number of monuments of national
importance, above all the standing stones of Callanish and its group
of associated sites on Lewis - shown on a map but not described
individually - which the reader is reminded is 'the most varied
collection of standing stones in Britain' (p.ll).
Outstanding in the context of the Iron Age is Dun
Carloway on the same island, one of the best preserved of all brochs,
and the only site to visit from the period described. Although there
was a great efflorescence of fortified sites of various kinds in
the Iron Age, many, such as island duns, are difficult to reach.
In fact 'Iron Age' is a term that can be legitimately applied to
the material culture of the Western Isles almost up to this century,
as is pointed out (p. 19).
Early Medieval historical sources barely mention
the Outer Isles, and though Early Christian carved stones are fairly
numerous, they tend to be less elaborate than in Argyll. The Pictish
cross-marked symbol stone on Pabbay is mentioned (one wonders to
what extent the Western Isles were part of the Pictish kingdom),
but the Early Christian 'site to visit' is, somewhat optimistically,
St Ronan's Chapel on North Rona. Although this is one of the few
Scottish sites comparable to the best Irish Early Christian remains,
it has of course been preserved chiefly by its extreme remoteness.
The plans and photographs of the building accompanying the description
should be useful for the vast majority of interested parties who
will most definitely never visit it.
The chapters on the Norse Settlement and the Middle
Ages and thereafter have useful historical summaries - not easy
to find elsewhere in compact form, perhaps. The chief surviving
Medieval monuments are, as elsewhere, castles and churches. The
former are both less common and less impressive than in Argyll except
for Kisimul Castle, Barra. Some indeed are almost absurdly small.
The photograph of Dun Mhic Leoid, Barra (p.34) makes it look like
a child's toy against the surrounding landscape. The Medieval churches
are also generally modest in scale, except for St Clement's Church
at Rodel on Harris. Some are of unusual plan, and the grouping of
several churches and chapels at some sites, for example, at Howmore,
South Uist, is noteworthy.
The final chapters cover traditional buildings
after the '45 and the development of Stornoway - the only historic
burgh in the Western Isles. What might broadly be termed industrial
buildings are represented by a 'Norse' mill at Shawbost, Lewis,
a whaling station at Bunavoneadar, Harris, and Butt of Lewis Lighthouse.
A useful book for the history-minded visitor to
the islands of the west then, well illustrated and reasonably priced,
if inevitably a little unbalanced in its scope.
Niall M Robertson
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